Faux stone veneer has emerged as the alternative to using natural stone. It is more affordable than natural stone, comes in a wide variety of color patterns, and is something that any DIYer can do in a single weekend. If you are thinking about investing in faux stone veneer for your home, you might be wondering how easy it really is to install. That’s why, in this article, we have put together a step-by-step guide to installing faux stone veneer.
Tools Needed to Install Faux Stone Veneer
Before you start installing faux stone, there are some tools you will need to get the job done. Here is the list of tools that are recommended for installing faux stone on any surface, plus some extra tools that are for installing on different surfaces, including wood, concrete, and drywall.
Recommended tools:
- Hand Saw
- Utility Knife
- Tape Measure
- Caulking Gun for a 10 oz Tube
- Screwdriver Bits
- Drill
- Framing Square
- Level
- Sandpaper
- Marker
- Gloves
- Safety Goggles/Glasses
Optional Tools:
- Table Saw
- Compound Miter Saw
- Jig Saw
- Power Sander
- Rubber Mallet
Additional recommended tools based on medium:
- Wood:
- 625″ Non-Corrosive Deck Screws
- 5″ Non-Corrosive Deck Screw (for Ledger)
- Drywall or gypsum board:
- 6″ x 1.25″ Drywall Screws
- Brick and concrete:
- Tapcon Screws
- Masonry Screwdriver Bits
How much faux stone do I need?
The first thing you need to do is determine how much faux stone you will need to complete your project. We recommend that you measure it by measuring the linear feet in the area you will be working in. A linear foot is how many feet are in an area horizontally. By measuring in the linear foot, you can determine how many panels and trim or ledger you will need to complete the project. The formula differs slightly for faux stone and brick veneer, so that we will look at them individually.
Formula to Measure Faux Stone Veneer
This formula is for a 65′ long and 4′ tall wainscoting.
- 65 x 12 = 780 inches long
- Each panel provides 41″ of width coverage so 780 / 41 = 19.02 panels
- Each panel delivers 11″ of height coverage so 19.02 x 4 = 76.08 panels
- Always add 5% and round up! 76.08 x 1.05 = 80 panels needed
- Each ledger provides 42″ of width and 3.5″ of height
- 780 / 42 = 18.57 ledgers
- Always add 5% and round up! 18.57 x 1.05 = 20 ledgers needed
- For a 90º corner, inside and outside corner panels are available. Each one is 18″ in width per row. The corners are the height of two panels stacked. For every three corners, subtract one full panel.
Formula to Measure Faux Stone Veneer
This formula to measure brick veneer is for a 65′ long by 4′ tall wainscoting project.
- 65 x 12 = 780 inches long
- Each panel provides 22.25″ of width coverage so 780 / 22.25 = 35.05 panels
- Each panel delivers 22.25″ of height coverage so 35.05 x 2 = 70.01 panels
- Always add 5% and round up! 70.01 x 1.05 = 74 total panels needed
- Each ledger provides 47″ of width and 3.75″ of height
- 780 / 47 = 17.42 ledgers
- Always add 5% and round up! 17.42 x 1.05 = 19 total ledgers needed
- For a 90º corner, inside and outside corner panels are available. Each one is 18″ in width per row. The corners are the height of two panels stacked. For every three corners, subtract one full panel.
Lay Out Your Panels
There are four different types of faux stone panels, so to give the project a more natural and random look, you should sort through the panels and lay them out in a way that gives it a more natural design. Avoid putting two of the same panels next to one another in any direction. An excellent way to avoid that is to lay out all of the panels you plan on using on the ground so you can ensure it is designed in a random pattern.
Preparing the Surface
The surface on which you plan to install the faux stone veneer panels needs to be completely clean and dry. Take the time to clean the surface and let it dry.
If you are installing your faux stone over existing brick or wood, the surface may have some uneven spots. In this case, you should first sand down those rough spots to have a thoroughly even surface to install your stone.
Measuring and Marking
You may need to cut out some spaces in your faux stone for light switches, electrical outlets, and fixtures. Remember, a good rule of thumb is to measure twice and cut once. You can’t undo a cut once made, but you can erase and redraw a line. Depending on the type of saw you are using, there are two different methods of cutting out spaces.
For a hand or circular saw, measure and mark the lines you need to cut out on the back of the panel. Make sure your lines are straight by drawing them with a level or straight edge.
If you use a table saw, mark the panel’s surface and put it on the table with the flat side down.
Cutting Faux Stone Veneer Panels
Now that you have finished marking where to cut your panels, it is time to get out the saw and start cutting. Let’s look at some tips for cutting your panels:
- When using a circular saw, ensure you carefully protect the panel when cutting.
- When cutting smaller pieces, a compound miter saw is best. However, you can also use a hand saw or jigsaw.
- When you are cutting out pieces of the panels to make space for a light switch or electrical outlet, the best saw you can use is a jigsaw, keyhole saw, or drill-hole saw.
Cutting Out Negative Shiplap Edges
Sometimes, you might need to cut a negative shiplap edge into a faux stone panel. This is best done with a router, table, or table saw. A circular saw can be used for this, but the job has better saws.
The horizontal cut of the shiplap edge should be about one inch. Once you cut, reset your saw blade to match the edge, about half an inch. You are cutting out a little rectangle.
Cutting Out Pieces to Fill in Gaps
There might be some little sections where you must fill a gap with smaller pieces. Measure the gap from left to right, not including the fingers. Use the factory edges and cut what you need to remove from the middle of the panel. Avoid cutting through the mortar; try to cut only through the stone.
Attaching the Faux Stone Veneer Panels
You have everything mapped out and cut out, so it is finally time to begin attaching the panels. The first panels you should attach are your corner pieces.
Test the panels’ fit before installing them to ensure they fit and do not need to be trimmed. Corner pieces have a positive edge on top, so there is always some minor trimming that needs to be done with them. You should shave a little off the back of the panel, but be cautious and avoid shaving too much. If you install these panels on a corner that is not 90°, a miter saw is the best way to make it fit. Light sanding is an excellent way to do that; you can touch those up with some paint to keep the panels looking like natural stone.
Start by marking a vertical line on both sides of the corner that is far away enough that you will be able to see them when you test fit your panels. Pick a corner to start with, and then you can install it from there.
Use a level to ensure that everything is straight and even before you add screws.
You can then use a hammer drill to make a pilot hole in the panel where you will be putting screws. Once the panel is attached to the surface with the adhesive, add screws. Typically, only one screw per corner is needed to secure the panels.
The installation methods vary slightly depending on the surface to which they are applied.
Wood
When installing faux stone on wood, sand the surface to flatten it. Once that is done and the surface is clean and dry, apply a moisture barrier to protect the wood. You will need to use 2.5″ exterior grade non-corrosive deck screws.
Drywall or Gypsum Board
If you apply faux stone to drywall, also known as gypsum board, adhesives are not recommended. Instead, use drywall screws to attach the panels.
Brick and Concrete
Keep the positive side of the shiplap at the top. Before installing a panel, apply a polyurethane-safe, premium construction adhesive, preferably PL-200 or PL-300, to the back of the panel in a 3/8″ bead in an “S” pattern.
Make a pilot hole with your drill that you can use to guide your concrete screws to the brick or concrete. We recommend using Tapcon screws, which are designed for concrete.
Caulking
There is a lot of caulking to do here while you are installing the panels. Apply a thin bead of caulking to the positive shiplap edges and all the finger tabs. You will also need to apply some caulk to all of your screws to hide them.
This can take up to two weeks to cure. Make sure that you keep alcohol and solvents away from your project during this time.
Touch-up Time!
You can begin touch-ups after you give the caulk two weeks to cure and dry. To hide the faux stone even better, use the paint that matches your faux stone on top of the caulking. You should also use paint to cover any exposed foam from cutting the panels and any other cosmetic damage that may have occurred in the cutting and installing phase.
All Done!
You have finished installing your stone veneer panels and can now sit back and relax. Except for touch-ups, many DIY projects with faux stone can be completed in a single weekend, either on your own or with help. Many people who are new to DIYing can install faux stone easily. Enjoy the finished project and the compliments from family and friends when they see the beautiful DIY project.
Whether you need to replace old siding, update your fireplace surround, transform the backsplash in your kitchen or bathroom, or something else, faux stone is easy to install. You can add a significant home feature in a matter of hours and for a much lower price than natural stone while enjoying the beauty of natural stone.
